That's good on the fluid loss Spliffy
If I'm not beaten to it, I'll do you a write up on 'box removal and replacement later. Bit busy right now...
timing problem sorted but now have a clutch issue
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Sorry for the delay in responding, Spliffy, there have been a lot of distractions just recently on here tonight
Basically, the removal is much the same as if you were removing a standard BE3 gearbox from a Xantia. The procedure is well described here. When disconnecting the slave cylinder, rotate it to unlock it from the bayonet in the bellhousing and withdraw it. Then tape up the pushrod so that it cannot fall out. Prop up the clutch pedal before removing the slave cylinder to further safeguard the pushrod falling out.
Replacement is where things are very different. The release bearing is pulled into the diaphragm spring AFTER the 'box is reattached.
It is very difficult to rescue and reuse the old release bearing and I'd not recommend it unless it is nearly new and known to be 100% good.
The bearing is held to the diaphragm spring via a "C" clip in a tapered and stepped housing. This makes the bearing easy to pop in but very, very difficult to extract. It can be done by pushing the bearing right in (with the pressure plate on the bench) and picking the "C" clip out with a pointed instrument. Damage is likely and the job must be done with extreme care. I'd use a new one to be sure but I doubt they're available on their own. If you do reuse the old bearing, note that the C clip is shaped and must go on the right way up. If there is even a hint of damage to the C clip, don't risk reusing it...
To reassemble, the driven plate and pressure plate (minus the release bearing) must be fitted to the flywheel and aligned using an alignment tool in the normal way. This is critical.
Then, place the release bearing by its ears onto the forks of the operating arm. Offer the gearbox up to the engine, ensuring it goes on exactly squarely and jiggle it a bit until the gearbox first-motion shaft splines engage with the driven plate.
Insert the bellhousing bolts and evenly tighten them.
Using a hooked tool, insert it into the slave cylinder hole in the bellhousing and engage it with the hole in the operating arm. Then pull the operating arm FORWARD with a sharp tug. This will push the release bearing into the diaphragm spring and it will click home. Using the tool, push and pull the operating arm a few times to ensure the bearing has in fact gone home.
Replace the slave cylinder in the bellhousing, turning it until it locks.
Then it's the normal stuff.
This picture may help visualise it all. the green ring shows where the hole for the hooked tool is located.
Shout if anything is not clear...
Basically, the removal is much the same as if you were removing a standard BE3 gearbox from a Xantia. The procedure is well described here. When disconnecting the slave cylinder, rotate it to unlock it from the bayonet in the bellhousing and withdraw it. Then tape up the pushrod so that it cannot fall out. Prop up the clutch pedal before removing the slave cylinder to further safeguard the pushrod falling out.
Replacement is where things are very different. The release bearing is pulled into the diaphragm spring AFTER the 'box is reattached.
It is very difficult to rescue and reuse the old release bearing and I'd not recommend it unless it is nearly new and known to be 100% good.
The bearing is held to the diaphragm spring via a "C" clip in a tapered and stepped housing. This makes the bearing easy to pop in but very, very difficult to extract. It can be done by pushing the bearing right in (with the pressure plate on the bench) and picking the "C" clip out with a pointed instrument. Damage is likely and the job must be done with extreme care. I'd use a new one to be sure but I doubt they're available on their own. If you do reuse the old bearing, note that the C clip is shaped and must go on the right way up. If there is even a hint of damage to the C clip, don't risk reusing it...
To reassemble, the driven plate and pressure plate (minus the release bearing) must be fitted to the flywheel and aligned using an alignment tool in the normal way. This is critical.
Then, place the release bearing by its ears onto the forks of the operating arm. Offer the gearbox up to the engine, ensuring it goes on exactly squarely and jiggle it a bit until the gearbox first-motion shaft splines engage with the driven plate.
Insert the bellhousing bolts and evenly tighten them.
Using a hooked tool, insert it into the slave cylinder hole in the bellhousing and engage it with the hole in the operating arm. Then pull the operating arm FORWARD with a sharp tug. This will push the release bearing into the diaphragm spring and it will click home. Using the tool, push and pull the operating arm a few times to ensure the bearing has in fact gone home.
Replace the slave cylinder in the bellhousing, turning it until it locks.
Then it's the normal stuff.
This picture may help visualise it all. the green ring shows where the hole for the hooked tool is located.
Shout if anything is not clear...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
i tried the car last night and could get all gears with the engine running but when i let out the clutch i get a grinding sound it sounds like something is hitting the fingers on the pressure plate if that is the thrust bearing arm can this be rectified with the box on if not does any one have a procedure for putting the box back on please cheers
Spliffy
have owned : renault 21,mk1 megane 1.6 8v
currently own renault megane grand scenic ( 1.9 dci privelige )
currently own renault megane coupe 1.6 16v
have owned : renault 21,mk1 megane 1.6 8v
currently own renault megane grand scenic ( 1.9 dci privelige )
currently own renault megane coupe 1.6 16v