Xantia HDI 110 clutch pedal on floor

[Simple76]

Yes would certainly need another pair of hands to remove box have done worse.

[Gibbo2286]

On many vehicles, including I think Xantias with the BE3 gearbox, there is enough room to split the engine and gearbox, slide the gearbox away from the engine to create enough space to change the clutch without actually removing the gearbox.

I trust Jim's advice when he said that this cannot be done with the ML5T transmission in a Xantia

That is exactly what I did with the last C5 2.0 HDI I did, it's a tight space to work in but it can be done, getting the box all the way out is a lot more bother.

I was working on the floor it might be different/easier if you have access to a lift.

[Simple76]

If you’ve done it then obviously is enough room. However makes it easier when gearbox out can see what your doing properly. Another pair off hands to remove would have helped I’m sure . Also there is a shaft where the thrust bearing moves up and down very often needs changing as well as gearbox drive shaft seals.

[pete the bus]

I wouldn't wish a HDi 110 clutch job on anyone!!

The ML type box (Hydraulic clutch change box, I forget the code for them now) is a bigger box then the BE box in the XUD and HDi 90 cars, and same amount of engine bay space, and therefore makes VERY tight space, and vurtually NO space to work when the box is away from the engine.

My car was the First exclusive HDi Ive done, others have been LX and SX models, and so the front centre sphere and hydractive block DO get in the way of the box shuffle, and NEEDS to come away.

NO I do not drop the box out, its one heavy Mother F of a box to try and lift up again!!! I use a jack to help hold it up.

After a lot of shuffleing and farting around I could only JUST get the box away from the engine, but still had a squeeze to get the pressure plate out. However, if your release bearing is still attached to the pressure plate, then it be an even harder task, as the box wont come away far enough for the input shaft to come out of the release bearing. All the 110 HDi clutchs Ive done so far have all had failed release bearings, where the release bearing has stayed on the input shaft meaning the pressure plate just cleared the input shaft after undooing, after a bit of box shoving.

I really detest hdi 110 clutch changes, and didn't really want to do this one. But was forced to due to finanical reasons which have not eased at all..

Lots in here: https://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/ ... &start=135 (links to the page where Jim has split the box - read from the beginning if you've got a few hours to spare!!)

Crikey, the garage isn't going to like me after asking them to do such a horrible job!
Hopefully they'll have someone there who's done them before.
Regarding that blog by Jim I notice from looking at one of the photos that he hasn't pushed the slave cylinder pushrod back in and secured it, and although it looks in good condition he still had to bleed it when he got it back together. The prospect of the garage being stumped if they have a similar situation is still playing on my mind - I wake up every night worrying about it!
I've booked it in for Thursday. They've quoted £425 plus VAT with new LUK clutch as a starting price, saying it could rise if there's added complications!

[xantia_v6]

If I remember correctly (I have not read the blog recently), the original slave cylinder on that car was broken and all the fluid escaped, a second had replacement was fitted, hence it needed bleeding. Yours wont need bleeding if there is still fluid in the reservoir at the master cylinder.

[pete the bus]

Clutch is done! I pushed it to the garage (with help of two friends) last Wednesday expecting them to have it over the weekend. They phoned me Friday lunchtime to say it had been done. Slave cylinder/master cylinder/hydraulics were fine - no bleeding necessary.
But....
Just as they were about to take it for a road test they noticed a leak coming from behind the engine. They had a look, identified the leaking pipe, and informed me that they didn't have the necessary tools to sort it out. I ended up topping up the lhm and driving it home ( about 500 metres). Whilst doing so I noticed a grinding noise from the left front when going round sharp right hand corners. As I've been away at work I haven't had a chance to look at anything until today. I can't see any obvious reasons for the grinding noise. Garage says if I bring it back they will have a look but obviously with the fluid leak I don't really want to drive it, and they say they won't test drive it until the fluid leak is fixed.
Any ideas what might be causing the grinding noise?
I'm reluctant to take it back to the garage.
I shall start a new thread regarding the lhm leak.