Hi Guys
I have a 03 reg Berlingo multispace forte.
The problem I have is that the drivers side ewlectric window has stoipped working.
The fuse is ok as the passenger window is still working.
I can hear a clicking sound coming from a relay? when I press the button.
Can anyone advise me as to what the problem may be and how to go about fixing it.
Cheers Jim
Berlingo electric window problem
Moderator: RichardW
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
Drivers side electric window intermitant fault.
I guess I better tell you my car. A UK, 04 Multispace Disire 2.0 HDi. So that's the back bone on which this fault occurs.
The fault is intermittent, so that means it's not a fuse, they break once. More likely a bad connection.
The passenger window works, so that means it's not the electric window relay. So purely drivers side components.
4 = Passenger Fuse Box on Drivers side!
54= Window Relay
56= Drivers Switch
57= Drivers Auto Green Box
59= Motor
RED=12volts Power
Green=Earth
Blues and Yellows The two Switch/Motor Circuits
Colours not as wires
Basicly what happens is I press the button and the window would do as it should but sometimes, nothing!
Both front electric windows have different circuit including fuse or in the case of the drivers Auto Window, fuses (2x).
The Passenger window is quite simple and in my case, not faulty. The Drivers window is more complex. It has two circuits. One 5A circuit from the dash switch to the Green Auto Switch Relay Box and the other 20A circuit from the Green Auto Switch Relay Box to Motor.
The drivers switch has an LED light in it when ignition is on, so if lit, the switch has power. So not the 5A fuse or switch earth (ground). The switch may not be completely ruled out though and the LED could be broken if not lit. The switch could still function.
The Green Auto Switch Relay Box to which the dash button wires lead is just under the felt under the fuse box in the drivers foot well.
You should hear a click from the little relays inside the Green Box as you press the dash window button up and down.
If you do, then possibly a Motor issue as the switch 5A circuit works fine.
If no click, and bare in mind the drivers switch had a lit LED, then most probably the fault is within the Green Box or it's connections.
This Green Box is easy to split. Once separated the electronics and both up and down relays are accessible. This is why the Drivers window has two fuses. A 5A circuit from the switch to Auto box relay and a 20A from Auto box relay to Motor.
The usual Torx screws hold it in place. The wiring connector gets in the way of the second screw and as I wasn't sure how to disconnect and in a hurry, I broke it off However, it is easy to disconnect by just pressing the middle "button".
If your Drivers Auto Window does work, listen for the clicks. One to start the down action and one once fully open. Listen for how long it takes for the fully open click to happen and shut off power. This may be the cause of the connection fault. Sending power to a none turning motor may cause heat and possibly a dry joint!
At this point I'm pretty sure (lets say 30% sure ) that the fault is a connection fault and in this case somewhere around the Green Box. A wiggle and things work again.
Once the box is split you can just lightly press the relays and if all circuits are good the window will function (ignition on).
As I no longer trust the part and want my window shut when leaving the vehicle, I've relocated the part for access. (rotate to connect).
The window did work for a while and then stopped again.
This time I got a magnifying glass and checked the components and solder joints.
Indeed, a dry looking joint on the 20A circuit. I think it's the delay to release power once the window hits rock bottom as the relay still sends power for around half a second to a none turning motor. Just a thought.
Any how, soldered and job done, for now!
I guess I better tell you my car. A UK, 04 Multispace Disire 2.0 HDi. So that's the back bone on which this fault occurs.
The fault is intermittent, so that means it's not a fuse, they break once. More likely a bad connection.
The passenger window works, so that means it's not the electric window relay. So purely drivers side components.
4 = Passenger Fuse Box on Drivers side!
54= Window Relay
56= Drivers Switch
57= Drivers Auto Green Box
59= Motor
RED=12volts Power
Green=Earth
Blues and Yellows The two Switch/Motor Circuits
Colours not as wires
Basicly what happens is I press the button and the window would do as it should but sometimes, nothing!
Both front electric windows have different circuit including fuse or in the case of the drivers Auto Window, fuses (2x).
The Passenger window is quite simple and in my case, not faulty. The Drivers window is more complex. It has two circuits. One 5A circuit from the dash switch to the Green Auto Switch Relay Box and the other 20A circuit from the Green Auto Switch Relay Box to Motor.
The drivers switch has an LED light in it when ignition is on, so if lit, the switch has power. So not the 5A fuse or switch earth (ground). The switch may not be completely ruled out though and the LED could be broken if not lit. The switch could still function.
The Green Auto Switch Relay Box to which the dash button wires lead is just under the felt under the fuse box in the drivers foot well.
You should hear a click from the little relays inside the Green Box as you press the dash window button up and down.
If you do, then possibly a Motor issue as the switch 5A circuit works fine.
If no click, and bare in mind the drivers switch had a lit LED, then most probably the fault is within the Green Box or it's connections.
This Green Box is easy to split. Once separated the electronics and both up and down relays are accessible. This is why the Drivers window has two fuses. A 5A circuit from the switch to Auto box relay and a 20A from Auto box relay to Motor.
The usual Torx screws hold it in place. The wiring connector gets in the way of the second screw and as I wasn't sure how to disconnect and in a hurry, I broke it off However, it is easy to disconnect by just pressing the middle "button".
If your Drivers Auto Window does work, listen for the clicks. One to start the down action and one once fully open. Listen for how long it takes for the fully open click to happen and shut off power. This may be the cause of the connection fault. Sending power to a none turning motor may cause heat and possibly a dry joint!
At this point I'm pretty sure (lets say 30% sure ) that the fault is a connection fault and in this case somewhere around the Green Box. A wiggle and things work again.
Once the box is split you can just lightly press the relays and if all circuits are good the window will function (ignition on).
As I no longer trust the part and want my window shut when leaving the vehicle, I've relocated the part for access. (rotate to connect).
The window did work for a while and then stopped again.
This time I got a magnifying glass and checked the components and solder joints.
Indeed, a dry looking joint on the 20A circuit. I think it's the delay to release power once the window hits rock bottom as the relay still sends power for around half a second to a none turning motor. Just a thought.
Any how, soldered and job done, for now!
04 Multispace Disire 2.0 HDi
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
very nice thread mate......resolved an intermittant fault I had on my drivers window....Had a different dry joint to yours on one of the legs from the connector block...bit of cleaning and a spot of new solder, all working fine now...
Big thanks for posting and linking great photos...
Big thanks for posting and linking great photos...
-
- New User
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 21 Apr 2018, 14:25
- Location: Gravesend. Kent.
- My Cars: Citroen Berlingo
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
Excellent info - Had several dry joints
Resoldered joints and now all working
Resoldered joints and now all working
-
- New User
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 12 Aug 2018, 16:53
- Location: Bristol
- My Cars: Citroen Berlingo 1.9
2003
WJY
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
Hie what is the voltage of the capacitors i broke and lost mine
-
- Posts: 251
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- Location: mid wales
- My Cars: pug306, citroen picasso
- x 14
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
Brill info, really good thread and wiring diagrams, you deserve a medal mate.......wish our pug 306 was as simple, central locking has a mind of its own when it rains......will re read this thread when i have more time, brill !!
This thread puts even so call specialist garages to real shame, they just fit these days rather than find and repair,,,,,all down to cost i know but it still hurts.....
This thread puts even so call specialist garages to real shame, they just fit these days rather than find and repair,,,,,all down to cost i know but it still hurts.....
- white exec
- Moderating Team
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- My Cars: 1996 XM 2.5TD Exclusive hatch RHD
1992 BX19D Millesime hatch LHD
previously 1989 BX19RD, 1998 ZX 1.9D auto, 2001 Xantia 1.8i auto
and lots of Rovers before that: 1935 Ten, 1947 Sixteen, 1960 P5 3-litre, 1966 P6 2000, 1972 P6 2000TC, and 1975 P6B 3500S - x 1752
Re: Berlingo electric window problem
I guess that 25v working would suffice, but don't know the value (μF) of that electrolytic capacitor.
PSA don't normally publish any details of the contents of individual electronic modules - just the surrounding circuitry - but someone here with a similar vehicle may be able (if you were very lucky) to open theirs up to read off the value of those two capacitors. Alternatively, try trawling the web for 'repair' articles on the module.
Chris